2017 – Four Finnish Favorites

Amy:  Growing up in northern Minnesota, I have many memories of my mom talking about her Finnish ancestry. Being 100% Finnish, she always had a desire to visit the homeland of her grandparents. In July 2017, my mom (Judy), sister (Jen), and I were able to turn that desire into reality. Here are my four favorite highlights from Finland:

1. Our generous and kind Finnish relatives

We arrived at the Helsinki airport after a quick stop in Amsterdam. Following the long flight, we were thrilled to be met by the friendly face of my mom’s second cousin, Riita. We recognized her immediately with her sign that read American Cousins Judy, Jen, and Amy.

Riita picked us up from the airport, about two hours from her home in Turku. In the early 2000’s, Riita’s father/my grandfather’s cousin (Pauli) connected with my mom. He was writing a book on his Finnish heritage and reached out to learn about our family. Since then they have remained in touch with holiday cards and messages.

When we reached out to Riita to share our plans to travel to Finland, we were kindly invited to stay at Pauli and, his wife, Raija’s flat.  During our four-night stay we explored Turku by visiting the historical Turku Castle, strolling by the tall ship festival along the river, and having lunch at the local brewery.

A must-see area in southwestern Finland is the Turku Archipelago. Thousands of islands are scattered in various sizes and shapes in this corner of the Baltic Sea. Many islands feature classic summer cottages in red and yellow with saunas clutching next to the shore.

Riita planned a day-long Viking cruise for us through the archipelago out to Åland Island. The fresh sea breeze, island viewing, and conversation with Riita brought us a day on the sea we won’t ever forget. We were also encouraged to enjoy some Finnish specialties including Karelian Pies and herring with potatoes.

The Finnish treats continued with visits at Riita’s house where we met her family, including her husband Jari and children, Mette and Joel, and their dogs, Sully and Mini. We learned more about education, work, and daily life in Finland.

2. The Finnish Summer Cottage

To cap off our time in near Turku, we made a visit to our extended family’s summer cottage. Pauli and Raija typically spend most of the summer at a seaside cottage retreat that looks quite similar to many vacation spots in Minnesota.

At the cottage, we shared food and stories (with Riita translating due to our lack of Finnish vocabulary), took an exciting boat ride through the local waters, and enjoyed a Finnish sauna followed by a refreshing jump into the Baltic. As we said hei hei (goodbye) to our newly found family, Pauli hugged us and took a long moment to look deep at each of our faces. It was a lovely moment of connection with this distant relative.

3. Travels through the Finnish Countryside

Wrapping up our visit to Turku felt bittersweet, but it was time to continue exploring more of Finland. Our next adventure took us on the VR train up to Tampere and a stay at the contemporary Hotel Torni. We then met up with another second cousin, Eeva, who lives in Helsinki, but has a cottage close to Tampere.

We took a trolley ride to explore the city. This was the first day where the weather was gray and overcast, but we still enjoyed a walk through the city, a tasty lunch, and a visit to the Tampere Cathedral with its somewhat controversial frescoes. A highlight was dinner and drinks at the Sky Bar overlooking the city and enormous lakes surrounding Tampere.

As we were planning, my mom shared the hope to visit a couple of small towns where her grandparents were born. So, we rented a car for the day and we headed out on the Finnish roads. My sister drove while I navigated us to our first stop in Ikaalinen where my great-grandfather (Alex) was born. We happened to find an area of town call Hakala (his surname) which we think may have been his family’s homestead.

We continued on to Laihia, where my great-grandmother (Emma) was born. The town was small, so we found the local church and cemetery. Shortly after arriving, we located the gravestone for my great-uncle. We just happened upon it in this small town and were pleased to find some connection to the past.

We felt a whole new appreciation for Finland with our time on four wheels. Farmland, forest, stunning wildflowers, moose-crossing signs, and lovely country homes dotted the mostly two-lanes roads. At times the driving was challenging with changing speed limits and traffic speed cameras. I am so grateful to Jen for braving the driver’s seat so we could experience Finland from the road.

Vaasa was our destination for the night and we had an amazing dinner at Strampen Restaurant and Terrace next to the water, followed by a walk throughout the heart of the city. The next morning we headed back to return the car and had a bit of stress with getting the car fueled up in time for our return. We made it back just a few minutes late with a full tank after a kind young man assisted us. We hopped on another train for our next destination: Helsinki.

 

4. A Taste of Helsinki

The train skittered to a stop at the Helsinki City Center and we were greeted by the hustle of locals and travelers at the art deco style train station. After finding our nearby hotel, we were needing a bit of relaxation. We nestled into the sidewalk restaurant at the Sokos Hotel Helsinki. Our relaxation was initially challenged by a number of people asking for money. This busy tourist and commerce area naturally attracts street performers, human statues, and some requests for cash. We adjusted to being in a larger city and took in the local sights.

Our final day in Finland treated us to clear, sunny skies which were perfect for our Hop-On, Hop-Off bus tour. We then strolled throughout the buildings and booths at Helsinki’s Market Square with vendors selling foods, as well as local handicrafts and souvenirs. Before jumping on the train to the airport, we said cheers to Finland with a lovely bottle of brut for 10 euros at the Belge sidewalk café.

This was a trip of a lifetime for my mom and I’m so glad that Jen and I got to travel with her. It will be a cherished memory forever. As I watched my mom and sister make their way through the Helsinki airport security gates to board their plane back to Minnesota, I felt the excitement that Jon would be landing in a few short hours to meet me. Up next…I was reunited with my favorite travel companion for a cruise in the Baltic Sea and visits to three new countries. Jon will share those memories and photos soon.

(Dates: July 19-28, 2017)