Exploring Angkor

Jon: Getting into Cambodia was a bit of an adventure. It entailed a long bus ride stopping at the border where we were met by an “escort” who “helped” us through the crossing. Small charges for paperwork and alternate transport crept in. It eventually became clear that the “escort” was there for a couple on a tour and the rest of us were marks for easy money. It didn’t cost much, but I didn’t appreciate the con even though we knew it was a common occurrence at this particular border.

The drive from the border was better. With the urban landscape behind, rice harvesters (like small combines with tracks) worked in the fields, two wheeled tractors pulled trailers, farmers tended to their harvest, and many houses were above ground on stilts. It was peacefully charming, aside from the crazy traffic where almost anything goes.

Siem Reap is a bustling little city with dust covered roads and boutique hotels. It seemingly developed out of an otherwise agriculturally dominated region to support tourism to the Angkor Archeological Park known to most as Angkor Wat. While Angkor Wat is the best known temple, perhaps due to its size and amazing architecture, it is just one of many in the area. This is a must-see attraction for visitors. There are other things to do, but none more iconic.

After a day of rest, we made arrangements for a tour through the helpful staff at the Angkor Pearl Hotel. We decided to start things at sunrise, which meant tickets would have to be purchased the night before. So, it turned out we’d get to see the area at last and first light – nice. After a trip to the hotel, bar, and restaurant area, aptly named Pub Street, we set off for our tickets and sunset.

Our tuk tuk driver, Thy – or Mr. T, brought us to buy tickets and watch the sun go down. We passed Angkor Wat bathed in the evening light on the way to the sunset overlook. We arrived at a trail leading up hill and were told to hike. Figuring we may get a view of the temple from above, we made our way amongst the hordes of people and continued uphill in anticipation of a magnificent view. What we found was a mass of people looking at, well, the sunset. With no temples below and crowds of people, it seemed better to explore some ruins on the hilltop and make a quick exit. Having been spoiled by beach sunsets over the preceding days, we couldn’t be bothered with the masses for a plains-view sunset.

Thy was outside waiting for us at 0500 the next morning and introduced us to Tim, our guide for the day. Tim was a jovial guy who was quick with jokes and bountiful information about town and the temples we’d look at throughout the day. Angkor Wat dominated the skyline during the predawn hours while we waited for sunrise to provide a lit backdrop for this architectural marvel. As with sunset, quite a crowd gathered to watch. I weaved my way through to find a view of the temple and its reflection in the moat surrounding it. Some newly met friends from the States called me over to their secret site – a small rise of dirt that provided a slightly better perch. We took turns trying to capture a good shot without someone’s iPad, selfie stick, or GoPro blocking the view. The sun slowly rose to backlight the temple and the morning darkness eventually gave way to daylight. People disbursed providing an opportunity for some clear shots as well as a break for breakfast.

The day was filled with temple visits and commentary from Tim regarding the mythology, religion, and architectural significance of what we were seeing. Some highlights included walking across Angkor Wat’s outer moat to enter the second perimeter in the pitch black, watching the morning sun light up the temple, visiting Ta Prohm temple which has been left in a less restored state to illustrate what things looked like when discovered, and visiting Bayon, the temple of carved faces within the ancient city of Angkor.

We were left to our own devices a few times, which allowed for some climbs up temples and exploration without exhaustive narrative. By tour’s end, we were all weary from the dust and heat of the day. We’d driven, walked, and climbed all over the area to see the wonderful sites. Tim timed things so that we avoided crowds and were out of the heat as long as possible. He beamed with pride while explaining his efforts to become a guide, learn new languages, and share knowledge with others. It was great getting to know a bit about such an amazing area in the presence of a really nice man.

During our final days in Cambodia, we enjoyed trying local cuisine during lunch at Marum, a training restaurant that provides young men and women the skills needed to become employable in the hospitality industry. Our Christmas Eve dinner was enjoyed at a great Italian restaurant called Il Forno just off Pub Street – Amy’s Christmas tree shaped ravioli was phenomenal. We also visited a school that provides education to underprivileged children. Amy led the students in some exercises that mimicked the outdoor activities of our beloved Colorado.

After all that, there was still some time before heading to the airport. The end of our time consisted of tidying up some plans and watching the hotel staff prep for their Christmas celebration. It was fun to see the staff decorate, dance to pop music playing between classic carols, and get in the holiday spirit the best they knew how. Alas, our time in Cambodia had nearly come to an end. There was one last surprise, however. Thy’s tuk tuk had been completely decorated for the holidays. He had garland around the top, a wreath, and some ornaments. He bared a big smile as we checked out the work. What a lovely way to end our time in such a unique place.

(Dates: December 20-25)