Amy: I love travel planning. The possibilities for exploring new places and seeing new sights brings such delight. Using the Google Flights “explore” feature, we narrowed our springtime travel plans and decided to fly into southern Croatia. This location is perfect for exploring a variety of beautiful and interesting sites across the region.
Our overnight flight on Lufthansa brought us to Dubrovnik, Croatia after a few hours layover at the Munich Airport. We jumped in our rental car and navigated to our first stop by the sea side. Looking out from our room at the Hotel Cavtat, low clouds clung near the mountains with the sun peaking out now and then. Cavtat is a charming town a few miles from the Dubrovnik Airport and was ideal for a low-key evening after a long flight.
Brilliant blues and teals sparkled in the bay when the sun came out. We strolled along a trail lined with large pines and rocky surrounds hugging the water. Dining at the Local Cuisine Dalmatino felt like vacation. We enjoyed the patio and had delicious seafood, pizza, and Croatian white wine called Pošip.
The next morning we drove across the border into Montenegro, which is about 30 minutes away. In April, the border crossing was quick and easy. However, in the summer months, crossing the border and getting through passport control can take hours. With a fresh stamp in our passports, we drove our rental car (a VW T-Roc) through the countryside and through one decent-sized city to get to Kotor.
Our drive skirted around the Gulf of Kotor, as we made our way to our lodging at the Blue Kotor Bay Resort. The last 6 kilometers of the drive brought a very narrow road which was paralleled by the waters of Kotor Bay on one side and stone buildings on the other. The two-way traffic on the road brought on waves of anxiety (at least for me). When we rented our car, they shared they had given us a “larger” vehicle, which in the United States is typically welcomed. However, an extra small car would have been a benefit on the narrow roads.
We spent the afternoon in Old Town Kotor and walked the walls around the city. The charming Old Town features medieval architecture (the town is over 2000 years old), narrow streets, and cobblestoned squares. And cats. So many cats! Local cats are abundant throughout the town and seem to be treated well by local shop owners and residents.
We dined outdoors at Pescaria Dekaderon and had risotto and a local speciality called cevapi, a regional sausage of sorts, in a square nestled next to a classic cathedral. Our day in Kotor wrapped up with getting back to our hotel, popping into the little City Market next door for some national beers called Niksicko, and relaxing in the hot tub overlooking palm trees and the bay.
While traveling, one of our favorite activities is simply walking. The next morning we took the bus into town (to avoid the anxiety of driving) and walked uphill to get an overlook of the city of Kotor and the stunning waters below. We hiked up to the Kotor Fortress along stone steps and rocks. This type of hike is one of our favorites with classic architecture, mountains, and waters all beautifully combined.
After our hike, we stopped back in Old Town for a beverage. The skies opened up and the rain poured. We hunkered down and had some dinner in a little pub before heading back to our lodging.
The days in Kotor came to an end and we headed back toward the border. We dropped the car off and grabbed an Uber into Dubrovnik and the Hotel Bellevue. The hotel clings to the cliffside with a beachy cove below. An elevator whisks guests down the steep cliff face to the cove and stony shore.
A 20-minute walk then took us into the iconic Dubrovnik Old Town. We entered the walled city through a large gate and headed toward the main Stradun promenade. Wandering through the old town, we took in the sights of more medieval buildings updated for today’s tourists with souvenir shops, restaurants, and the ever popular gelato.
We happened upon a doorway and peaked out to see a bar built into the rock face. Old Town juts out into the waters of the Adriatic Sea with most sides surrounded by water. We grabbed an Ožujsko beer at the Buža Bar while watching brave souls jump from the rocks into the sea and kayaks make their way to a nearby island.
After a few hours of checking out the side streets and buildings, we stopped at a rooftop restaurant for some dinner. We overlooked the stairway used for the “Shame” scene in Game of Thrones (for all you GOT fans!). We started to head back toward the hotel and made a detour toward the large Fort next to Old Town. Hiking up many steps, raindrops fell and a perfect rainbow emerged over the Old Town peninsula. The views capped off the day beautifully.
The next morning we indulged in wonderful breakfast at an outdoor deck above the sea. Fueled up for the day, we traversed through the city roadways to find a somewhat hidden trailhead to hike up Hill Srđ. A cable car also brings people to the summit of the hill and Fort Imperial which was significant in the Croatian War. Built in 1812, Fort Imperial was used again as a military base in the 1990s, during the war in the region. This hike surprised us with large, beautiful pines hugging the trail along the first portion. As we ascended, the rocky switchback provided sweeping views of Old Town and the coastline below.
After enjoying the views from the top, we headed down to find a viewpoint closer to the city to check out the rooftops and walls in the Old Town. When we made it back into Old Town, we found our way to a sidewalk cafe and had black cuttlefish risotto and squid. We also discussed if it was worth 70 euros for us to walk the city walls. There are a series of defensive stone walls surrounding the city that provide views to the sea and below. We decided it was worth it and climbed a long stairway up to the walkways above the city. Views of the sea and Old Town greeted us as we took the 2 kilometer walk skirting around the Old Town.
A siege on Dubrovnik occurred between the Yugoslav People’s Army and Croatian forces defending the city during the Croatian War of Independence. Much of the historic city was damaged during the war. Some rooftops show evidence of being restored and we learned more about turmoil in this region about three decades ago.
We stayed in Old Town long enough for the street lights to reflect on the cobblestones. Jon loves taking photos of cities at night, so we ambled along as dusk fell over the buildings. Our feet were weary after the nighttime walk back to our hotel, but the day was full of remarkable sights. The next morning would bring us to yet another country.
I booked a bus trip to take us to the town of Mostar, in Bosnia & Herzegovina the next day. Southern Croatia’s borders are nestled next to a couple of countries and we thought spending a day in another country would provide new sights and learning. Our bus picked us up early from our hotel and whisked us up the coast known as the Dubrovnik Riviera. A guide on our bus, Maria, shared personal stories and anecdotes about life in the region.
Our first stop was at Kravica Waterfalls. Our small group headed down a staircase to be greeted by multiple waterfalls cascading into a turquoise blue pool. In April, fewer visitors come to the area, so we enjoyed the beautiful landscape without hoards of people.
The bus then took us to Mostar. This medium-sized city is burrowed in the mountains and experienced a great deal of unrest during the Bosnian War in the early to mid 1990’s. Evidence of damage still exists on buildings in the city. Our day centered on the Mostar Bridge and Old Town. Slick rounded stones paved the paths in Old Town and were quite slippery to negotiate. We sat next to a creek and had some stuffed dolmas and a huge “mixed meat” plate that are common in Bosnia & Herzegovina. A local Žilavka wine and Mostarsko beer were a great pairing with our lunch.
We walked throughout town, admired the Old Bridge, and checked out the shops that lined the streets. A three-hour bus ride took us back into Croatia after a day learning about the area and viewing the landscape through the bus windows.
Jumping into the Adriatic was in order for our last day, so we rode the elevator down to the beach. I jumped in the cool, refreshing waters and floated in the salty water. Jon opted to just wade in the shallow waves. We basked in the sun in beach chairs and wrapped up our time with beachy vibes.
We headed to the airport and we flew back to Munich. This time around we had nearly an 18 hour layover, so we decided to stay in a nearby town called Freising. Jon found that the oldest brewery in the world was within 20 minutes walking distance of our lodging. We checked-in to the Bayersicherhof Hof and strode through the city streets and trails to the Weihenstephan Brewery. Jon’s pork schnitzel nearly brought a tear to his eye, as we took in the authentic German surroundings and crisp beers.
After our night in Germany, we headed back home with new memories and experiences. We were happy to get home to Riggs, but always wish for a bit more time to explore new places.
Dates: 4/15/23-4/23/23
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